Viofo pro duo12/20/2023 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() You can use your pry tool to lift up the clips that hold the halves togehther and they should pry right out. It'll take more effort than you think, but these are stout panels. The goal is to separate the two halves horizontally. Then I could work my way down the gap to the first clip. Using the tool, I pried at the join until I was able to loosen the guide pins. I started from the front of the housing where the center split meets the seatbelt indicators. Opening the mirror housing requires a trim pry tool and a little elbow grease. So while tapping into the mirror for the Viofo haredwire kit is technically possible, I would personally avoid it. I don't know anyone who has done this, but the main issue is that the mirror housing likely doesn't have enough space to store the voltage regulator that comes with the kit. Note that there is apparently 12V constant and switched power going to the rearview mirror area, so theoretically you could tap the Viofo hardwire kit to those wires. So if you're interested in using it, you might have to check for restocks. It seems to go out of stock on a regular basis. The downside of this method is no parking mode.Īvailability for this adapter seems to be hit or miss. Accessory mode is not enough to get the camera to run. The auto-dimming mirror circuit is switched with ignition, so it turns on and off with the engine. The camera itself draws a lot less power-something like 5V1A when using dual cameras, so it should be a safe draw within that circuit. The maximum USB power supplied by this adapter is 5V2A (around 10-12 watts). This is a plug-n-play wiring adapter that provides a USB connection. If your car has a frameless auto-dimming mirror (with or without homelink), this is the easiest way to get a clean, stealthy install. I didn't want the camera to keep recording until the car decided to power down the ports, so that left me with.ĭongar Mirror Tap. The 12V power socket in the console is constant power, so that's a no go for a plug-in USB adapter. The USB sockets in the center console switch off after a certain period of time after locking the car. However, I'm not using parking mode, and that opens up a few more options. See this post for more info: If I want to eventually use parking mode, that's probably what I'd do. If your soldering skills are up to snuff (or you're comfortable with splice taps), you can tap into constant power and switched power wires near the driver's side kick panel. This means the least invasive connection-fuse taps-requires routing wires through the firewall to the engine bay fuse box. Unfortunately for us, as detailed in many reddit and forum posts, the interior fusebox supplies constant power at all times. This kit taps into switched power and constant power, so when you turn the car off, it automatically switches to a low power mode. One of the big features of the A129 is its parking mode, but for the automatic low-power mode you need to use the hardwire kit. There's three possible ways to power this camera, and which one you choose can impact the camera's functionality. These instructions/experience are for the A129 Pro Duo, but they'd work just the same for an A129 Plus Do, A129 Duo, or other similar dual wedge cameras like the Street Guardian duos. But doing a dual cam is a much more involved job, and there's a lot more work to do. I've installed Dash cams before-I put a single Street Guardian in my 2011 Mazda 3 hatch. My car is a US model, so keep that in mind. However, since this is a very common camera, I figured a detailed setup and gotchas post might prove helpful for anyone else down the line. There's a lot of good posts on this forum about various dashcams, which helped with my install. This weekend I installed a Viofo A129 Pro Duo (front 4K, rear 1080P) dashcam into my CX-30 Turbo Premium. ![]()
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